Uphill All the Way
Climbing the Alto del Perdón, soon after Pamplona, Spain. A week or two out of Le Puy, a Swiss pilgrim named Sascha told me he preferred walking uphill to down. At the time, I thought he was crazy. I...
View ArticleWalking Time
In the church at St-Alban-sur-Limagnole, along the Chemin du Puy. A little while ago, I described two months on the Camino as “an eternity.” It made so much sense to me at the time that I didn’t...
View ArticleWalking Revelations—Or Not
My sister Celena, who for some unfathomable reason would rather ride horses than walk. But there may be hope for her yet. My sister Celena didn’t used to be interested in walking pilgrimages. I once...
View ArticleI’m Off Then (to Toronto, England and … oh yeah … Sevilla)
After I decided to walk the Vía de la Plata back in January, I spent some time on the Internet reading about cities along the route and dreaming. Most of the websites I found were aimed at tourists,...
View ArticleA Day in the Life of a Pilgrim on the Vía de la Plata: Part 1
It’s hard to explain to people who’ve never done it what it’s like to walk 20 or 30 or so kilometres a day. So one day, when walking from Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almedén de la Plata on the Vía...
View ArticleA Day in the Life of a Pilgrim on the Vía de la Plata: Part 2
If you haven’t read Part 1 yet, this will make more sense if you start there. After 16 kilometres of arrows pointing straight ahead, it was very exciting to turn. You can see the park entrance in the...
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